This week I have been reflecting on community. As many of you have experienced, there is nothing quite like finding yourself in another culture to make you aware of your own. Though my experience of culture here in Tanzania is doubtlessly affected by my obvious "foreignness", I have been finding the community here particularly enchanting. It has been explained to me that Tanzania is made up of over 120 different tribes, each with their own history, beliefs, and sometimes language. This is thought to be a really positive for Tanzania, since there is no one tribe that can dominate the others, as has been the unfortunate reality of many other African nations. It seems, from my naive perspective, that several tribes have maintained their way of life in a way that is so obviously different from the typical city dwelling Tanzanian. An example of this is the well known Masaai tribe, prominently donning their red and blue patterned scarves, beaded ear adornments, and patterned scarification on their cheeks. As a pastoral people, they are often seen tending to large herds of cows and goats, even in relatively urban areas around Selian hospital. It is a regular occurrence for us to run into a traffic jam of livestock being tended by a young Masaai herdsman. This contrasts to some of the other urbanized Arusha residents, many from other tribes like Chaga, who have taken to city life, working as shop keepers, taxi drivers, and other urban jobs.
One particularly fascinating aspect of life here that I have seen in my limited exposure, is how these different groups interact with each other and with ousiders, like myself. A prominent display of these daily interactions occur in the greeting of one another. Each day, myself and Hope, take our scenic walk to Selian hospital and are pleasantly barraged with endless greetings. The most common greeting is "mambo", which is a sort of slang term, much like "what's up?". To this greeting, we have been learning new responses in unlimited combinations. So far, we have learned "poa" (cool), "safi" (clean), "mzuri" (good), "mcima" (well), "fresh" (fresh?), and my favorite "poa kuchezi cama ndezi indana ya fridji" (cool like a banana in the refridgerator). There is also "habari" (what's the news?) and shikamoo (I respect you), which are more formal. Then there are the many school children eager to use their English phrases, like "good morning teacher" and "how are you?". Though I can barely scratch the surface to communicate in Swahili, I can sense the rich feeling of community in people greeting each other. When I watch others great one another, it is almost never a short interaction. Honestly, I have no idea what is being communicated, but I can sense the sharing of their interwined lives. They stop to share a cup of chai, to rest in the shade, to carry their produce from the field together.
In the hospital, I have seen how families rally to collect money for medicines and to search the countless "dawas" (small pharmacies) for the right medicines. I have seen how patients in neighboring beds support each other, like when a Masaai family cannot speak Swahili well and the neighbor will help fill in the details of whether they have received their medicines as ordered or have been taking the recommended refeeding formula. I have seen how the local doctors here will often buy necessary supplies with their own money, such as Oral Rehydration Solution, extra food, and even clothing for their patients. There is a sense of cooperation and support for one another that extends beyond family, tribe, and language. The people here have been gracious to greet us everyday, but I see that below this surface greeting there is such a richness of community here that amazes me. It challenges me to consider how I relate to others and how we as Americans (or whichever subgroup we find ourselves in) can look beyond ourselves to build stronger community with one another.
